Driving in Albania: what to expect behind the wheel
Albania is one of Europe's last great road-trip frontiers, and getting around by campervan is genuinely part of the adventure. The good news first: Albania
drives on the right, the same as most of mainland Europe, so drivers arriving by ferry from Italy or overland from Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia or Greece will feel at home. Roads have improved dramatically over the past decade, with smooth new dual carriageways linking Tirana, Durres and the coast. That said, conditions are
variable: a glassy fresh tarmac stretch can give way to potholes, gravel or a goat in the road within a few kilometres. Driving here rewards the confident and patient. Local traffic can be assertive, overtaking is enthusiastic, and you will want your wits about you in towns. Take it slowly, build in extra time, and an Albania road trip quickly becomes one of the most rewarding drives in the Balkans.
Licences, minimum age and the paperwork you must carry
To hire a campervan or motorhome in Albania you will need a full driving licence held for a minimum period (typically one to two years, depending on the supplier). Most rental campers fall within
category B (up to 3,500kg), which your standard car licence covers; only the largest full-size motorhomes might need a higher category, so check the vehicle weight at booking. Minimum hire age is usually
21 to 25, with a young-driver surcharge for those under 25. Bring the following:
- Your physical driving licence (an International Driving Permit is recommended for non-EU visitors, including UK drivers, and is worth carrying to smooth police checks)
- Your passport
- The vehicle registration and insurance documents, including the Green Card, which the rental company should supply with the van
Keep these together in the cab. Albanian police checks are routine, and having your paperwork ready makes them quick and painless.
The roads and the SH national network
Albania's main roads are signed
SH (for
rrugë shtetërore, national roads) and are mostly toll-free. The famous coastal
SH8 over the Llogara Pass is the headline drive: spectacular hairpins climbing to roughly 1,000 metres before dropping to the turquoise Albanian Riviera around Dhermi, Himare and Gjipe. It is paved and entirely doable in a camper, but it is
steep, winding and slow, so use low gears, mind your brakes on the descent, and start it well rested. Up north, the mountain roads towards
Theth and Valbona in the Accursed Mountains are now paved but remain narrow, steep and slow; a
higher-clearance camper or 4x4 helps in the far north and on rough tracks, and a smaller van is far easier than a full-size motorhome on tight mountain bends. Everywhere, watch for
livestock on the road (cows, goats, the occasional flock of sheep), unmarked potholes, and the odd unlit vehicle after dark. Avoiding night driving on rural roads is sound advice.
Tolls and fuel: budgeting for the road
One of Albania's quiet pleasures is how cheap it is to drive. There are
very few motorway tolls: the main one is on the
A1 "Nation's Highway" near the Kalimash tunnel on the route towards Kosovo, payable in cash or by card. The vast majority of your journey on the SH national roads will be toll-free. Fuel is good value and
diesel (look for "nafte") is widely available on main roads and in towns, with petrol stations frequent along the coast and around Tirana. The key habit:
fill up before remote mountain stretches, especially heading into the northern Alps, towards Theth, or before long quiet sections, as stations thin out fast off the main routes. Carry cash too; rural and small-town pumps may not take cards. Prices are quoted in lek but euros are often accepted near the coast.
The legal essentials and safety kit
Albanian law requires every vehicle to carry certain safety equipment, and your rental camper should come equipped, but it is worth checking before you set off:
- A reflective hi-vis vest for the driver (keep it in the cab, not the back)
- A warning triangle
- A first-aid kit
Other rules to know: the
drink-drive limit is low, so treat it as zero and do not drink and drive.
Dipped headlights are sensible (and expected) outside built-up areas and through the many tunnels. Seatbelts are mandatory for all occupants. As mentioned,
police checks are routine and generally polite; slow down, be friendly, have your documents to hand and you will be waved on quickly. The single most useful number to save is the
emergency line, 112, which covers police, ambulance and fire across Albania.
Crossing borders with your campervan
Many travellers fold Albania into a wider Balkans loop, and crossing in or out by camper is straightforward if you plan ahead. The non-negotiable document is the
Green Card insurance certificate, which proves your vehicle is insured abroad; your rental van must carry one and you should confirm the listed countries cover your route. Crucially,
tell your supplier in advance if you intend to leave Albania and get explicit cross-border permission, as not every rental company allows their vehicles into neighbouring countries, and an unauthorised crossing can void your insurance. Popular crossings link Albania with
Montenegro (towards Shkoder and Lake Skadar),
Kosovo (via the A1 and Kalimash tunnel),
North Macedonia (around Lake Ohrid and Pogradec) and
Greece (towards Sarande and the south). Carry passports for every passenger, keep the vehicle documents accessible, and allow extra time at the border in peak summer when queues build.