Balos, Elafonisi and Falassarna: the wild west
Crete's far west is the postcard: the turquoise lagoon of Balos with its white sandbanks, the pink-tinged sand of Elafonisi in the south-west corner, and the long golden sweep of Falassarna, one of the island's great sunset beaches. All three are within reach of a Chania pick-up.
- Balos: reach it by boat trip from Kissamos, or via the gravel track from Kaliviani followed by a walk down. Go early or late in summer.
- Elafonisi: shallow, warm water that families love. The drive there through the Topolia gorge area is a highlight in itself.
- Falassarna: park up nearby for the evening, buy supplies in Kissamos, and watch the sun drop into the Aegean.
Samaria Gorge and the White Mountains
The Samaria Gorge is one of Europe's classic day hikes: roughly 16 km from the Omalos plateau down through towering rock walls to the sea at Agia Roumeli, open from around May to October depending on conditions. There is no road out of Agia Roumeli, you leave by boat to Chora Sfakion or Sougia and connect back by bus.
With a campervan, the comfortable play is to sleep near Omalos or Chania the night before, start the hike early, and plan the boat-and-bus return to your vehicle. Sturdy shoes and plenty of water are essential, the gorge is a full day. Around the White Mountains, the Omalos and Askifou plateaus and the road down to Chora Sfakion are magnificent drives in their own right.
Knossos and Minoan Crete
Twenty minutes from the Heraklion depot lies Knossos, the great palace of Minoan civilisation and one of the most important archaeological sites in Europe. Pair it with the Heraklion Archaeological Museum in the city centre, which holds the finds, together they tell the story of Europe's oldest literate civilisation. In summer, arrive at opening time or late in the afternoon to dodge the heat and the coach groups, and book tickets online where possible.
Spinalonga, Elounda and Agios Nikolaos
East of Heraklion, the Mirabello Gulf gathers some of Crete's most photogenic corners. Agios Nikolaos wraps around a small lake linked to the sea, ringed with cafés. Up the coast, boats from Elounda, Plaka and Agios Nikolaos cross to Spinalonga, the Venetian fortress island that later became a leper colony, made famous by the novel The Island. It is an easy, rewarding day on the east-coast leg of your route.
Vai and the far east
Keep driving east and the crowds fall away. Vai is home to Europe's largest natural palm forest, a genuinely surprising sight fringing a sandy bay at the island's eastern tip. The far east around Sitia is Crete at its quietest: raki-making villages, empty roads and beaches you may have to yourself, even in August. It is the natural final chapter of a full-island itinerary before dropping the van back in Heraklion.
Rethymno old town
Halfway between Chania and Heraklion, Rethymno has one of the best-preserved old towns in Greece: a Venetian harbour with a lighthouse, narrow lanes mixing Venetian mansions with Ottoman balconies and minarets, and a huge fortezza above it all. Park outside the old town, walk in, and give it an evening, when the harbour tavernas light up. Chania's own old town and harbour deserve the same treatment on the western leg.
Cretan gastronomy and wine
Crete has the most distinctive regional cuisine in Greece, built on what many consider the original Mediterranean diet: superb olive oil, mountain greens, cheese and slow-cooked meat.
- Dakos: barley rusks topped with grated tomato, mizithra cheese and olive oil, the island's definitive snack.
- Kalitsounia: little cheese or greens pies, sweet or savoury.
- Antikristo lamb: slow-roasted upright around the fire, a mountain-village speciality.
- Chochlioi: snails fried with rosemary and vinegar, more delicious than they sound.
- Graviera cheese, mountain honey, and oranges from the Chania plain.
- Cretan wine: the vineyards south of Heraklion, around Peza, Archanes and Dafnes, grow local grapes like Vidiano and Liatiko, and many wineries welcome visitors for tastings.
- Raki (tsikoudia): the island's spirit, offered free after almost every meal. Remember the 0.05% limit if you are driving on.
Shop at village bakeries and weekly farmers' markets, and let your campervan kitchen do the rest.